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Aluminum repair/ Cleveland area?

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by MrDrifter16, Jul 8, 2007.

  1. I have an aluminum 16' open fishing boat and it needs rivet/maybe hull repair.
    One of the previous owners beached it often which has caused some rivets
    (general area 5 ft. from bow and where bow centerline straightens out towards the stern, also the rivet line is port to starboard as well) to come loose and about a 5" long crack. It has always taken on a little water and I have tried patching (may not have prepped it properly though) cause some patch work has come off, but it has gotten worse. I have gone from bilging about 3-4 inches water from every 2 hours or so to to about 45 min-1 hour.

    My questions are should this be re-riveted or relayered and is there a good inexpensive shop in this area or should I make patching area bigger than what it needs to be, or a better method of patching?
    Thanks for the help!!!!!!
     
  2. freyedknot

    freyedknot useless poster

    i would tighten up the rivets myself , takes 2 people one to pound them and another to hold a butt plate up against them. as far as the crack ,it prolly should be welded by a professional. maybe parma marine will tell you where he sends his repairs for welding? but i would NOT let them do it!!!!!!!!
     

  3. BigDaddy300

    BigDaddy300 multi species angler

    I don't think I would let Parma Marine wash my boat let alone do anything else to it. I would call Grever mower and marine and ask if he could recommend any one. He has been fixing motors for many years here in Cleveland and might know of some one. Another place that I would call would be Buckeye Sports Center. They have been treating me very good this year. Nice people there. Good Luck!
     
  4. freyedknot

    freyedknot useless poster

    i would not let parma touch mine either ,but they do have a welder that they use.
     
  5. Eriesteamer

    Eriesteamer BORN TO RIDE THE WAVES

    I maybe fix it.do as other said to tighten rivets. some use those epoxy glues as J B Weld.I first try the 2 man way then use J B Weld if leaks after you try tighten the rivets. just how big the boat.last I know how weld the crack.is there a floor in boat. so as to not get to it from inside.
     
  6. creekcrawler

    creekcrawler Konfused Kayaker

    4,497
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    Might want to check with these guys (both A+ in my book) -

    Welding - Jeff Suggins/ Suggins Welding 216-566-7131
    (did some nice aluminum work on the g'friends outdrive
    last year)

    Hull Repair - Neil Whatshisname / North Point Fiberglass 216-696-8141.
    (pretty grouchy, but good work!)
     
  7. Check This OUT www.cabelas.com Aluminum boat patch $6.99 catlog # cj-01-0655 For rivets and small cracks. Tight lines Fishguy
     
  8. you can put all the plastic crap on it you want but the crack needs to be welded .tighten or replace the rivets ,the welding is no big deal. just remember ..Pure tungsten is about $5 a stick, aluminum tig rod is about $10 a pound and argon is about $47 a btl and gas is $2.99 a gal not counting the mans time,a 5 in crack is probably going to cost you $50 if you take it to a weld shop,a lot of places won't even mess with it .I am teaching this week I would do it for free If I had the boat in the shop now,Find a trade school they most likely will do if just for the training.don't have a clue where you are located
     
  9. I relate to you my recent experience with re-riveting: I recently aquired a 1989 18 ft Grumman aluminum boat that had a dozen or so loose rivets in a high flex area toward the bow where the waves would hit regularly as you speed along. Because of the rivet problems I got it extremely reasonably We took the floorboards up, drilled out the rivets, and replaced them with new aluminum rivets and hammered them with a pneumatic riveting hammer and with my buddy holding a dolly on the other side. We then put a dab of epoxy over the outside head of the rivet to guarantee the seal. They went in well, and it cut down the leaking to almost nothing. But by July after many fishing trips they began to loosen up again progressively leaking more and more. Ultimately after my son got caught out in a storm half way to Canada he made a 16 mile run back to Lorain as fast as possible. Of course the boat took a pounding. All the rivets we put in were now looser than before, and some were missing entirely. The boat leaked profusely. We debated whether to pull the floorboards up again and try something else....but decided to punt. I did like the boat and particularly it's performance on Lake Erie (though the 88Hp Evinrude was a monstrous gas hog). I sold the boat as needing repairs and bought a new non-riveted boat. In retrospect I would have taken it to the Starcraft dealer in Kent. They said that they would get it re-riveted and guarantee the repair--and they have a pretty good reputation.
     
  10. Im not really sure if they weld boats but it won't hurt to give these guys a call
    Guarantee Auto Welding 1528 E. 49 Th. St.
    Cleveland , Ohio 44103
    216- 431-1214
     
  11. It was only a 2-mile run back to Lorain that day. I wouldn't have gone out 16 miles on a questionable day. :p What's the world coming to when I can't even get respect from my pops? But yeah, I took a couple waves harder than I would have liked.

    The 17-mile run was made the following week, out of Edgewater. We must have popped a rivet or 2 on the way out (and I wasn't running the boat THAT hard), and when water started coming up through the floor, it was a little disconcerting.

    I still maintain that the 88HP 'Rude couldn't have been that bad on gas. Assuming we did about 4 miles on the trolling motor, I figure we ran 30 miles on 15 gallons of gas that day. ;)