Recently I posted this on another forum and hope someone gets some usefull hints from this - I see a lot of guys make through wire lures, understandable when I see some of the pictures of the fish you catch there. I dont normally bother for trout but if I am going after Murray Cod or Barramundi here, it certainly is an advantage. This is how I have been doing it for about 30years (with a 10 year break until recently) but it is by no means the only way, as you can see from this great forum and others. Some of this will be obvious and mundane to the seasoned builder, but it could turn the light on for guys just starting out, so bare with us. Take what you like and adapt it to what you need and by all means, have fun doing it. I dont think there is anything new, but because of the sizes I make 3& 2 (very small I know) and because I am pretty isolated here, I have been doing through wire a bit different, and for some of you guys, may be more accurate and quicker. These sizes are only what I use and can be expanded or contracted to suit the size lures you make. It sounds complicated but once I am set up I can cut and rout 10 - 12 lures in about 30 min (not including sanding and wire harness), these will keep me busy for months. JIGS: If you intend to make this a career or an extended hobby - Make a JIG for every aspect of lure making you can (that goes for wire harness, furniture, wood turning, toys etc), it initially takes a lot of time to make some jigs, but the time savings and accuracy from lure to lure, down the track are enormous. If you get one lure that is the right weight and shape, and it runs to the depth you like, then every one will run the same if you use jigs - if you dont, each one will be a mystery, until you use it. Treat jigs like gold and put them away after use, some can be tiny, but invaluable - THESE (jigs), I think, are the most neglected part of amateur lure making, or making anything for that matter. DONT FORGET THE DUST MASK First I get a 20mm x 20mm length of timber and rout a 3mm wide and about 1.5mm deep groove (this 1.5mm, would be about ½ through wire harness thickness), the entire length of a suitable length piece of timber on both sides. Length is up to you but I usually do about 1 meter (3), which gives me about 10-12 lures @ 80mm. If you want to add weight (lead wire etc) to your lures, you should allow more width for this, so use a wider bit. I then put this timber through a table saw and cut it length ways, slightly less then half width (8mm), this leaves the off cut slightly wider (9mm), the blade is 3mm wide. I then put the off cut through (routed edge on fence) and shave off the extra width (about 1mm), this way you finish up with both sides exactly the same width and saves fiddling around trying to cut dead centre. Put these two sticks together and cut with a drop saw or hand saw, hack saw and dock off to slightly longer than your required length, which for me is a bit longer than the finished lure (80mm). Get the router going again and set up some stops (I use old clothes peg springs) and rout the slot for the bottom hanger/hangers (same depth same width). Because each side is a reverse of the other, you will need to clamp on a R/hand and L/hand stop here. Obviously the distance from the lip end to the first hook hanger should be approximately the same for both pieces, dont worry about the back end, any extra can be sanded off later. Sort them into opposing pairs and maybe number them and mark the end you will be using for the lip. Its essential to get the lip ends square here, for when you have to cut the lip slot later. Now get your lure profile and outline it on the lure, with the profile (lip end) starting right at that end of the blank. I make my profiles out of 1mm sheet aluminum and have been using the same ones for years (its a Jig), or you can stick on printed paper lure profiles - one side should do if all your sander beds etc are square, if not draw/glue your lure profile on both sides (of course noting where the square lip end is and the routed part for the bottom hook hanger/s). If you want to make an aluminum profile, just stick your paper one on a sheet, roughly cut out with snips and then put it on the sander to finish it off, sanders eat aluminum. Check that your wire harness fits snugly in the routed grooves, not loose, if it is loose just sand (within reason) a bit off each face until it is snug to tight, when you glue and clamp the halves later, life will be so much easier if the harness is a good snug fit. I now have two halves (8mm x 20mm x 80)), place the routed edges together, the bottom hook hanger slots should approximately line up and the lip end should be square. Now you dont have to align with dowels etc. Get the finest panel pins (fine nails) you can find, for me these would be about 1mm x 12mm long (enough to pass through the top half and about ¼ into the second half), square everything up and nail the two pieces together (without wire harness), nailing about 1/3 from each end or where you know the saw blade (for lip slot) will not hit it and you will not want to drill for eyes etc. If possible dont pre drill these pin holes. Now if everything was flush and square, you should get a nice tight join. Now cut the lip slot, this is where youre blank, being square and centered, really pays off.