Advice/Critique--Wire Through

Discussion in 'Tackle Making' started by fugarwi7, Mar 11, 2008.

  1. fugarwi7

    fugarwi7 Lumberjack

    I have shifted gears from my walleye baits (except the 2 drying now) and jumped into a wire through construction for a Pike/Musky bait. Below are a few pictures of what I have got done so far. Before I glue up the halves, I was hoping for some criticism or suggestions on potential errors/problems based on what your experienced eyes see. The wire was hard as hell to bend into neatly shaped hook eyes and my finger tips are still sore from that process...I can't remember the gauge (I think .051), but it is stiff!! I have made a few boo-boos but nothing that would prevent me from continuing...but I won't make the same mistakes next time (and there will be more of these in spite of the challenge thus far). Can you guys offer up any advice for the coming steps that might improve what I already have done?

    FYI--I thought about using hot lead to pour in the weight holes so it somewhat encapsulates the through wire---good or bad idea? I thought I could always drill out some if it is too heavy.

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  2. Fugarwi,
    First let me say that what you have already is great.
    Here are a few thing's that may make next time even easier. Lay out your template and plan where you want all points, line tie, hooks, lip and ballast. Now you know where to put those pesky dowels. You can now draw a straight line from front to rear and easily plow out that line with a router, as well as the hook drops. I then drill only a 1/16" hole through both pieces to mark for doweling (less work to fill small holes). Big tip , Use an easier bending wire like form wire, or bailing wire to calculate all the necessary turns, once you get it ,copy with stainless. Weighting the lure, I'm only commenting about method not actual placement. If you know that's where you want lead, yes you can melt , I do ,but it is a health hazzard you need to be aware of. You will need to be sure the bottom of the lead holes are sealed to prevent your pour from following your slick wire chase. (Don't ask me how I know this!). A few things here, Yes, drilling out weight is a great way to tune providing you poured enough to begin with. Cooling lead will shrink and therefore fall out if not epoxied. And ,The wire help's hold the lead rather than the reverse. Will someone tell me to shut up!!!
    It sure would be neat to see you wire that whole thing,lip included, you're soooo close!!!
    Hope there's something you can use,

    Douglas
     

  3. fugarwi7

    fugarwi7 Lumberjack

    Douglas, Thanks...just the kind of input I was looking for...since it is all new to me, any tips for improvement helps, especially going forward. Since I am sooo close, I would like to learn more about a tip to tip wire procedure. I am also curious about the gauge of wire most use for this method and where to get it. The pieces I have are only 12" and I could not include the lip even if I wanted to. I will attach the lip on this bait mechanically so I won't have to worry about that 40#'er busting it off...LOL. And oh yea, don't worry about rambling on either, I am like a sponge absorbing all of this. Thanks again!
    Brian
     
  4. Fugi, you could wind two pieces of the 12 inch wire together within the bait, if the one piece is too short for the job.
     
  5. fugarwi7

    fugarwi7 Lumberjack

    DUH! Do I feel stupid...such an obvious solution to a seemingly real problem...I think I've sniffed too many fumes and sawdust!! :D
     
  6. Nah, don't look at it that way. There are a lot of things with this building stuff that are like that. I think that sometimes we deal with so many problem-solving situations in trying to achieve certain results that we often overlook a lot of otherwise obvious solutions. I can't tell you how many times, I have ignored the obvious and instead went into that mode where you consider a lot of more complicated solutions to a normal problem.

    Just like you, I'm still learning about bending and installing internal wire harnesses and to me its just like working on smaller baits...the challenge of it is fun.

    I'm almost out of musky-class bucktail wire, which is what I use for the lip wires. Lol, I've bent up a bunch of them in the process of learning how to get a continuous wire from point A (the nose) to point B (the tail). My fat fingers get stubborn sometimes and refuse to take orders from my brain...and I'm beginning to suspect that my brain occasionally goes on temporary hiatus at times.:D

    I'm still getting used to wearing a respirator when dealing with the cedar though. That stuff is really nasty to the lungs and the eyes. But it is truly a lot easier to shape, cut, drill, and carve than the other hardwoods I've become used to working with. A friend dropped off some sliced up chunks of what I think were telephone poles and I've been trying to salvage as much of it as I can by slicing it with the table saw.

    This stuff is a disease.:p
     
  7. fugi- This looks pretty good to me- I like this wire harness method, I have been twisting all the eyes, which is tricky/laborious to get the length right.
    There may be a few short cuts you could use (with router and saws) on TU, under Tutorials, "Micro Through Wire". pete
     
  8. fugarwi7

    fugarwi7 Lumberjack

    Thanks for the insight...I will go to TU for more...I still don't get on there like I do this site and sometimes forget about the wealth of info available on there...gotta go!!