close

Privacy guaranteed - Your email is not shared with anyone.

? About T-1-11 wood siding.

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by Darwin, Mar 20, 2005.

  1. Darwin

    Darwin If your gonna be a bear..

    Have any of you ever put it up and how soon after it is up do you need to get it stained or painted? I am in the process of building our Pole Barn and will be putting it on the outside.
    Thanks!!
     
  2. Put it up may times. You got to keep her square for the seams. It requires some drie weather to stain and the bottoms will rot if left in contact with the ground. Some yellowing or bleaching will be noticed after staining. Sprayer works best and brush the seams.
     

  3. If you have an indoor heated area you can prime/stain it now. I have on several different jobs stained our siding in a barn with minimal heat so it would be good till appropriate out door staining conditions. Just take all the needed siding and stack it on a set of horses. I always used a huge stain brush that looked like a small push broom head. It is a little messy but alot faster and easier than when it is hung. Just set up like a Teepee to dry and touch up stain where you make cuts as soon as weather allows.

    Scott
     
  4. Elamenohpee

    Elamenohpee Banned

    530
    0
    0
    just make sure you use the "Z" channel at any stacked joints. It's not a bad idea to seal the top and bottom (mainly the bottom) before you hang it. Best to keep it just below the top of your kick boards or at least 8" off the ground. Stain or paint it right away.
     
  5. catking

    catking Banned

    5,617
    6
    0
    Make sure you nail this product every six inches in the field , and four inches on the joints . If you don't, it will pull loose, and you will never get it back in place. Also, do not crowd the joints and this product will move a bit . If it is put on tight, it will also buckle . If you stack it, use the " z " flashing as mentiopned, but also make sure you leave a good 1/8 " gap betweet the flashing and the piece you lay on top of it. This product is one of the most difficult to keep it looking good, but if installed properly , it will do good. THE CATKING !!!
     
  6. Darwin

    Darwin If your gonna be a bear..

    Thanks for all the replys everyone!! :)
    I have the "Z" channel for it as the barn we are building is 10' at the square. Sealing it on the "Z" channel sounds like a good idea, I did not think of that. Also it will be approx 8" off of the ground so I should be fine as far as getting any ground rot. I planned on using a "stain sprayer", the kind that looks like a yard sprayer but will also use a brush for the seams. Thanks for that idea also!
    Thanks again!! :cool:
     
  7. If it is only 10 feet to the peek I would get a 4x10 sheet instead of the 4x8. Costs more but no Z or seams to worry about.

    Scott
     
  8. AS much as I hate to agree with catking, he said it 100% correct
     
  9. Darwin

    Darwin If your gonna be a bear..

    Papascott,
    It is 10 feet to the square and almost 16 feet to the peak. Thanks though I did not realize they made this stuff in 4X10 sheets. I bet those 4X10 sheets are real fun to put up!! ;) The 4X8 sheets are heavy enough!!
     


  10. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

    come see me, I'll deliver :D :D :D
     
  11. Darwin

    Darwin If your gonna be a bear..

    Thanks for the offer PoleSnatcher, but I already have it sitting in my garage taking up space!!
     
  12. did you get the 5/8" or the 3/8" thickness?


    5/8 will hold up better
     
  13. Darwin

    Darwin If your gonna be a bear..

    I got the 5/8" stuff. We got a "Pole Barn Kit" and it came with all I need supposedly.( ;) ) I guess we will see when I am done. Anyway, it came with spiral galvinized nails for the T-1-11 siding, I was thinking about using screws instead. Any suggestions on that?
     
  14. if you use screws use something coated and DO NOT use "OLD" galvanized screws if they are going to contact the treated at all. The newer ACQ treatment is VERY corrosive and will eat through regular hardware and single glav. hardware in as little as 6 months. The newer joist hangers are double or tripple galv. and are ok, also the nails are either double dipped or hot dipped and are ok. The older screws are only single dipped and will corrode. Teflon coated screws are a good choice also a very good choice in Guard Dog screws, a bit pricy but I perfer them. Also if you are putting any metal siding, coil stock, fascia, etc. on that will contact treated lumber use some type of barrier such as a foam sill seal in between them to keep the ACQ lumber from thouching the metal

    I think that I covered everything, if not I'll post again. Feel free to PM me with any quetions.

    Also a 6 or 8D spiral siding nail would be what you would want yo use if using nails.


    sorry about the spelling, it's not my best subject ;)
     
  15. ACQ contains copper and is very corrosive to any metal. Some type of barrier should be used between the lumber and any metals. Even screws and joist hangers had to be changed because of this treatment, a single layer of galvanizing is no longer sufficient. Metals contacting ACQ lumber should be atleast double galvanized because the first layer that the ACQ treatment eats neutralizes the treatment.
     
Loading...
Similar Threads Forum Date
Any Cleveland to Wildwood reports? Lake Erie Fishing Reports Tuesday at 8:05 AM
My Wooden Artwork/Carvings The Lounge Monday at 11:08 AM
Mad at Eastwood Southwest Ohio Fishing Reports Oct 6, 2017
Wildwood 10/5 Lake Erie Fishing Reports Oct 6, 2017
Shimano Curado 200HG, Flambeau Bazuka, Woods Sleds etc For Sale OGF Marketplace Oct 5, 2017