Why make/add mods? These trucks are beastly as is. They'll tow just about anything you want and speed isn't a good thing at our age. LOL
A good diesel mechanic can tweak the motor to get more juice out of it. Chipping is an option too.
My 6-oh air filters run $85 the K&N housing and elements are likely more.
It all depends on what your intent is.
Oh yeah, I had my front windows tented to match the rears and added the LineX bed coating. )
Why make/add mods? These trucks are beastly as is. They'll tow just about anything you want and speed isn't a good thing at our age. LOL
A good diesel mechanic can tweak the motor to get more juice out of it. Chipping is an option too.
My 6-oh air filters run $85 the K&N housing and elements are likely more.
It all depends on what your intent is.
Oh yeah, I had my front windows tented to match the rears and added the LineX bed coating. )
Agree! Surely doesnt need more power.
But as Hook posted, mileage can be improved a bit. Air restriction is just too great from the factory and the engine just can't breathe.
Mines an older 2004. A K&N air filter/housing has been a plus. Along with installing a tuner/programmer.
In 'light tow' mode, I get right at 20mpg out on the road not towing. Due to the hilly terrain where I live, this seems to be the best all around mode to leave it in as this mode changes the shift points a little.
In town it's about 17.
Mileage? I don't want to think about it. The 4:10 limited slip only gets me 10 mpg (avg.) while going down hill at that. ;o)
Truck weighs in at 7,500 lbs, dry (8 ft. Bed and crew cab), but when hooked up to boat (7,500#) or camper (12,000#) it won't even sneeze and mileage is the same with both.
I know, I know...I shouldn't be running 70+ mph.
I did have the intercooler deletion kit install a couple of years ago. I brought it new in 2005, I'm up to 91k and It still runs like a champ.
Experience has shown me the best way to improve MPG is to slow down. I figured out once how much money I would save by chasing mods and when you break down the cost it just wasn't worth it.
Your right I have no need of greater power! It really is beastly as it sits from the factory.
My around town mpg is 11.4 so far so I'd definitely like to get that improved.
At the same time I don't want to end its warranty coverage in the process, so I'm wondering what things I can do within that limitation.
Rodney, I can see why you don't want to think about your mpg- downhill.
Maybe when you catch a tailwind you'll jump a little.
I have the extended or whats now called the double doors, 4 door model with an 8' bed.
My rearend has 3.73 gears so I'm hoping to be able to make some improvements.
Not really sure on modifications and warranty issues. Probably not much you can do. Maybe someone else can chime in on what you can do as far as warranty goes. It's possible Scum Frog would know since he works at Sharpnack.
But I do know that big mileage improvements over 11.4 can be had by air box/filter and chip/tuner modifications as well as running 4" exhaust all the way back.
There's no doubt in my mind you can see 19-20 on the road without towing and jump to 16-17 in town.
A friend of mine has a 2010 with all of the above mentioned mods. and this is what he gets. Without pulling a trailer.
He'll get right at 15 on the road towing a huge trailer loaded with his pulling truck, all his pulling equipment, tools etc. Or pulling his 36' camper.
Thanks fastwater, maybe Scum Frog will respond here, if not I'll pm him to see what he knows.
16-17 around town would be amazing. I'm down to 10.-- something right now, all city miles.
Thanks fastwater, maybe Scum Frog will respond here, if not I'll pm him to see what he knows.
16-17 around town would be amazing. I'm down to 10.-- something right now, all city miles.
With all the EPA regulations, they just come sooo plugged up from the factory and can't breathe.
And...it seems every year that goes by theres more added sensors for sensors that already exist. Not only is it crazy...it's just sad.
If you think that truck has power now, unplug it so it can breathe, go to bigger exhaust from front to back, get you a chip and it will be like a different truck. Not only with power, but mileage for sure.
That differential (4x4) ratio makes all the difference in the world ....no pun intended.
Four wheel drive will starve the mileage too. That's what I've noticed.
My mechanic's son had his diesel tuned for more power and learned that more power is not very good with differentials. He went through three of them before tuning his diesel back to factory specs.
Mileage? I don't want to think about it. The 4:10 limited slip only gets me 10 mpg (avg.) while going down hill at that. ;o)
Truck weighs in at 7,500 lbs, dry (8 ft. Bed and crew cab), but when hooked up to boat (7,500#) or camper (12,000#) it won't even sneeze and mileage is the same with both.
I know, I know...I shouldn't be running 70+ mph. I did have the intercooler deletion kit install a couple of years ago. I brought it new in 2005, I'm up to 91k and It still runs like a champ.
But I do know that big mileage improvements over 11.4 can be had by air box/filter and chip/tuner modifications as well as running 4" exhaust all the way back.
I would really recommend NOT going with a K&N filter, or any of the oiled filters. Stay stock or go with the largest paper filter you can fit. Napa Gold 6637 or something along those lines is going to offer you the best combination of flow and better filtration.
Also, you won't get away with an intake, exhaust, and tuner, if you intend to keep warranty. I know on newer Ford Powerstrokes, the dealer can see when an unauthorized device has reflashed the ECU - and I assume that's the same for all of them. Think of it this way, you install those aftermarket parts - if you have an issue, you are going to have to reinstall all of the stock parts before returning the truck to the dealer. Just leave it stock until the warranty is up, then do the mods.
No need to guess, you are absolutely correct.
I did a search on replacing it myself and decided otherwise. I remember it called for an 8 hour task and remember saying to myself, you should find a certified diesel tech.
It was spitting oil and white smoke through the exhaust 100 miles from home.
Did that, and $2.8k later with 40 more HP, I was good.
The tech said he could get more power, nope not for me.
As mentioned, aftermarket air intakes won't really give you a noticeable increase in mileage. The issue with K&N filters or any filter that you use oil on is that the oil can interfere with the mass airflow sensor and cause the truck to run absolutely horrible. I've been a member on a few duramax forums since I bought mine back in 06 and have done a lot of work on mine and my brothers 02's. I currently have the motor out of mine and all torn apart but I can remember back to when the k&n type filters were causing issues and it wasn't yet a rule of thumb to be cautious with them and there was all kinds of issues popping up. In my opinion, just skip the intake and save the money. The way to get a noticeable increase in fuel economy with the newer trucks like you guys are discussing is only achievable by doing things that will void you warranty. With the newer trucks once your warranty runs out delete, delete, delete. Delete all of the emissions junk and you will certainly see an increase in fuel mileage. As far as EGR valves are concerned, delete that as soon as possible when the warranty is up as well. Not for a mileage increase but because they are headache. Also, the newer trucks have to deal with regen mode where he truck burns up soot that has built up in the exhaust at certain intervals. It does this by burning more fuel with a 9th fuel injector but I believe you can use EFI live tuning to prevent the motor or trick it into not going into regen mode. Do some searching online as I believe there are actually "delete kits" available. Someone mentioned an aftermarket exhaust which is a good idea as removing the DPF filter will probably net you a decent gain to begin with. However, when removing all of this equipment I believe some tuning is actually REQUIRED to trick the trucks into running properly. I'm not really up to date with the 2009+ trucks like I am with the 01-08 duramax trucks though.
Dovans, do mean transmissions? Tuning a diesel for more power will go to work on stock transmission very quickly. The differentials are pretty stout in all 3/4-1 ton trucks.
The front and rear diffs are all pretty bullet proof in the trucks. There's guys drag racing/sled pulling making well north of 1000hp and 2000 ft lbs using stock rearends and front front axles. The GM IFS does need some beefing up as the stock tie rods won't last very long though.
Jim, you probaly wasn't expecting this much info, I bet. Which there is a lot of good stuff in the thread.
I believe you have it right though. Talk to your service manager and see what they have to say about warranty and modifications.
Also, check online and see if there's any recalls on that model year. And always use a good additive when fueling.
Change the oil filters and fuel filters on time.
Mine has a horizontal fuel conditioning module (HFCM) with a water in fuel sensor. It's only tripped once.
There's a purge/drain on the side so that helps if sensor trips, but it's better to change both filters at that point.
The fuel filter there is not an easy thing to get to, but with a few ratchet extensions it's doable in a snap.
Oh yeah, the oil and anti-freeze capacity are huge.
Enjoy the vehicle and hopefully improved fuel milage.
This is great! This thread will be a great source for anyone else in the future who wants information on this topic. (which is how I always approach the threads I create)
I'm wired as a detailed kind of guy and am eating all this up. You can bet I'll be referring back to this thread in the days to come too.
Along with everything else it appears there may be a need for me to plug in an engine heater come winter too? There is a grounded plug wire wrapped up on top of the engine for something.
Your right Rodney, this info is exactly what I was hoping for from you guys and then some!
It looks like I'll be enjoying learning more about this truck for some time.
.
I think you will find in your research that there is not really any 'one' thing that you can do to increase your mileage a great deal. But there are different things you can do that when accumalated, give you much better mileage. Your problem is that these things will most likely void your warranty.
As far as doing those mods. to increase mileage, those same mods. just so happen increase hp. With the exception of the tuner, most of those mods include Unplugging the plugged up air flow and exhaust of the engine. More air in...easier flow of exhaust out is the way engines like things. Especially diesels.
The tuner/programmer is programmed to squeeze the best performance out of the engine and trans. for what you have it set to. So, you can set the tuner to optimize the mileage for what you're doing with the truck at the time or the type of terrain you are driving in. Again,mine mostly stays in the 'light tow' mode. Seems to do best all around in that setting around here. If I took it on a trip in which I wasn't towing and on mostly flat terrain on the freeway, kid most likely go to 'best fuel mileage' mode. This is the mode it was in when I picked the truck up in Alabama where I purchased it. Drove straight through back home running mostly 70-75 and averaged between 19-20mpg. But again, mines a 2004 without the regen system and less EPA crap then the newer ones.
Far as mods. that improve mileage(which also increase power) I don't know anyone that has had trans. problems as long as they drove like they had some sense. I do however know a few guys that drove their D-max like it was a Vette and had tranny issues with the stock Allison. Like anything else...if you want a drag car/truck or a competition pulling truck, you have to build one. They don't come stock.
Block heater's are a must in cold weather. I'm not sure about the GM/Isuzu motor but mine came with the heater installed.
The cord was not included and I purchased it from the dealer ($90).
This was after I purchased an external oil pan heater and install it. LOL
Maybe someone else will chime in as to wether your engine has the factory heater.
Also, there's some great sites dedicated to those motors.
It just might be a matter of getting the correct cord.
Don't know about the newer D-max's but the heater cord for most I have seen is tucked up under the passenger side battery. Factory tied with a wire tie.
FWIW...I have not had to plug mine in during the winter...and it sets outside. Just have to turn the key on, wait a second and let the glow plugs do their thing and she fires. This is the same with most of the guys I know around here that has them.
Since we're on the block heater topic, I use a electric programmable timer to start the heater 2 hrs. before departure. Just plug it in the night before, and get at it the next a.m.
The truck sits outside year round unless I have to do routine maintenance.
Believe it or not I even had a diesel Chevette that never had to be plugged in. Loved that little car for getting back and forth from Cols. from Hocking Co. everyday. It had enough weight with the diesel to be good in the snow and got about 40mpg.
I never knew Chevettes had diesel engine. I've owned two of those and they'd go anywhere. never stuck in the snow. Downside, the breaks always needed replaced after a year for some reason.
G.M. Did experiment with diesel engines in passenger vehicles back in the 80's. I call it experimentation because they didn't have a lot of experience in the market.
A co-worker had an early 80's Caprice with a diesel.
The problem was they used their base big block gasoline engine and converted it to a diesel. Due to the higher compression ratio it would shear the tops off the head bolts. It happened several times with his vehicle.
They've come a long way with these motors. That includes all of the big 3.
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