Ohio Game Fishing banner

Fired up the airbrush...

538K views 4K replies 200 participants last post by  Halonsix 
#1 ·
...finally.

Been working on the paint shop (drywall, insulation, paint, light fixtures... yuck, all work, no fun) and have the room finished to a point where I can use the new paintbooth.

I'm a little rusty because I haven't painted for about 6 or 7 months, but I got the first one painted and applied one of three coats of clear. Its a chubby minnow-type bait and its built to run about 5 to 7 feet deep.

I was trying to achieve a metallic copper effect that would change color as the bait rolls and wiggle on the center axis when retrieved. It seems to have worked out fine. It turns from a dark rust color to a light copper color as the bait is turned in the light.





I started a couple more, but ran out of time.

I'll post a few more as the weeks go by and I sure hope some of you post yours too.
 
See less See more
3
#3,290 · (Edited)
Here's a few I made for my tackle box. I finished testing a few new colors and I'm starting to test a few more new patterns.
Had a great season so far. Larry and I had a few special days including a recent outing where we boated six.
It'll soon be time to break out the bow for archery season.
Musky season goes too fast...
 

Attachments

#3,307 ·
Let me clarify my last post....they repaired my sight with all new parts. There was only one part that did not need to be replaced. They did the entire repair at no charge.
I was impressed with the warranty and service, especially considering that my sight was accidentally RUN OVER by my camper...it's a long story, but that's what happened and they didn't hesitate to fix my bow sight. Their warranty truly covers everything!
 
#3,309 · (Edited)
Beige Fashion accessory Brass Ring Metal
Rolling pin Wood
Wood


I've been turning some Alaskan yellow cedar in the basement. Made a few jerk baits and gliders for the upcoming season including a couple of new prototypes.

I devised a way to find the centerline for screw eye placement and to align the eyes so that they are in exactly the same spot on both sides of the bait. If you've used a lathe, you know that this is not easy to do once you remove the blank from the bait.

The process involves leaves the squad ends of the stock intact and then flattening the corners on the sanding belt before you cut off the square ends. This will require pictures to properly explain and illustrate, so next time I spin a few on the lathe, I'll post some pics.
For now, I'll give a short explanation...

The idea is to place the screw eyes along the belly of the bait in a perfectly straight line...drawing that line is not easy because the baits taper toward the tail. It is also very desirable to place the screw eyes into the wood across the grain as opposed to with the grain so that they hold tighter and grip the wood better. Cedar is relatively soft, so this is important. Although the stuff is expensive, Alaskan yellow cedar is somewhat tighter grained and holds screw eyes better than say western red cedar, but I still try to maximize the strength of the screw eye installation by aligning the center line on the cross grain.

Of course, eyeballing the eye placement is not easy with any bait, but it's really tough with a tapering jerk bait.
The method I devised allows for a far more precise pilot hole into which I drill the eye sockets with the Forster bit.

I know that you can drill a tiny pilot hole through the square stock for the eyes prior to turning the blank on the lathe, but doing so does not give you much latitude to move the eyes and requires much more precision when you carve the bait because you have to make the bait strictly according to where you placed the pilot holes and that is not easy or very accurate.

More to follow. I haven't perfected this trick yet, but I'm working on it. :)
 
#3,311 ·
You're right, Mr. A, and that works great for scribing the line along the belly as long as you can easily determine where to scribe it. On tight grained wood looking at the end of blank where it's cut square makes it easier to determine where to scribe the belly line. But it's the eyes which require a line on both sides that are bit tougher to get the same distance from the belly line. The front to rear positioning of the eyes is easy; you just make mark with the lathe spinning.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top