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88 evinrude slp

3K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  chatterbox 
#1 ·
got this beast on my pontoon boat, today it started to stall soon as I put it in gear and gave it gas also became hard to start I tried pumping the ball up on my 20 gal tank but notice it felt soft could this be the problem? It is a 2 cycle so maybe a new set of plugs also
 
#2 · (Edited)
Do yourself a favor and don't guess what's wrong. Start with a compression test. Then check plugs for rich deep blue spark. Then take fuel line from pump to carb off, turn engine over watch for fuel to come out. Any test that fails gives You a starting point for repairs. You can't fix a problem not knowing what the problem is.:) Compression, Fuel, Air, and Spark at correct time and an internal combustion engine can't help to run. Systematic work on one issue at a time. Will save money and aggravation at same time. If You have been running E-10 fuel, and You find a problem with the fuel system It is a good idea to change to ethanol resistant components. I use Atwood components from Walmart, and fuel line from any auto parts store . Just as good as any. Now You have a game plan, Good Luck! ;)
 
#5 · (Edited)
When You buy hose connectors, make sure You get the one for Johnson-Evinrude. The Merc.-Yamaha will fit too loose and Your motor will suck air. They look identical. Also don't use fuel line over 6' long. I recommend 5/16" for hoses from the tank to the fuel pump. Before You hook the line from the fuel pump to the carb, go ahead and check the fuel pump. If all other tests check O.K. and Your motor does goofy stuff such as start and die, will only run with choke out, will run at idle only, will run at wide open throttle only, or won't start at all, THEN the carb needs cleaned, rebuilt, or both. Enough to wind an old man. HA! HA! HA! Oh, if You had fuel issues then the spark plugs are probably toast. NGK B 6 HS If point and plug ignition. NGK B 9 HS-10 if electronic ignition Any auto parts store can order. About $2.50 ea. The bigger the number the cooler the plug on NGK
 
#8 ·
Glad to see some one willing to learn and become a little more self reliant. Never fails, to go wrong when boating season is the busiest. Also great for the self esteem! :) Let us know when it's running. Thank You. I always try to post info that many other readers can put to use as well. Most out board problems can be fixed by the owner, but when a certified mechanic is needed, DON"T hesitate to visit one!
 
#10 ·
took the boat out today it started right up fished with it for about one hour mostly at trolling speed We got hungry so we pulled over to courtesy docks to eat soon as we where ready I started the motor but it died soon as it started I had to choke it to get it to run but then it acted like it was flooded anyway after about 20 min of starting and dying I got it to stay running so we headed back across the lake to our dock soon as I backed the throttle down it started dying again got it to the dock where its going to have to stay cant afford to take it to a marina
 
#15 ·
Once you get it started, try pulling the fuel hose off and see what happens when the carbs start running low on gas. The motor should speed up before you run out of gas. If it does you need to take the carbs down. If you have not run this motor in awhile, gumming up and maybe a seat not shutting the fuel off can happen. Ebay stores should have carb kits that ship cheaper than online marine stores. Someone mentioned fuel hose. Get new because the old ones can crud up.
 
#16 ·
A lot of small pieces of rubber lean idle screw tensioner got sucked into my carb. No parts needed, except $.20 replacement. I just cleaned it out. Spayed float valve with carb cleaner and visually inspected it for wear and sticking. The inside liner from fuel lines, fuel pump diaphragms, and rubber carb parts are what disintegrate and end up in the carburetor.
 
#17 ·
I have gone to E-10 compliant plastic gas tanks, fuel lines, primer bulbs, and fuel pumps. Sta-foam is alcohol based as well and I am only using it to clean varnishes and shellacs from carb and internal engine components. I am not going to keep outboard fuel over winter and am going to drain all outboard tanks in fall. I plan to replace all fuel components every season. I figure planned maintenance will go a long way. I'll do the work myself so cost isn't prohibitive.
 
#18 ·
That sounds like a good ideal this is my first large boat motor so I plan to set up a PM for it during the winter also I am even thinking of taking off carbs for a good cleaning every year my boat is wet docked so it can be a pain working on it, I guess not to bad till I start dropping stuff from the motor in the lake
 
#21 ·
If I can add, to all the good advice, I learned to quit buying brand x primer bulbs. Found paying the price of a good johnnie/rude bulb versus 2, sometimes 3 brand x bulbs a season is well worth it. 3rd season on my J/E bulb. That 88spl is a good old engine, and, will last if properly maintained.
 
#25 ·
I think too much. Any how, a lot of us are using older motors that we must make last. We need to be concerned about E-10 eating up the upper and lower crank shaft seals also. The marina at West Branch State Park is 4 miles from my house and carries Ethanol free at $4.00/gal. OUTCH !!! Not too bad in a 9.9 hp. but I won't be doing a lot of run and gun in my bigger boat. OUTCH !!!
 
#27 ·
Ya, all of my out boards are older motors. I read a lot about problems with E-10 and have decided to return to ethanol free gas in my outboards. Just can't afford an 85 hp. and 20 hp. motor. I have run very little E-10 so I should be O.K. I have about 4 gallons on hand to get rid of, But that's no problem. Lots of grass. Really thinking about going down to my sea nymph 14r and a 20 hp. electric start and call it a day. Just a new electric trolling motor for my Erie boat costs pretty close $600.00.
 
#28 ·
I know what you mean I have a 2003 mercury 2 stroke 9.9 if this 88 gives me much problems I just may put it on my 24 footer, take a while to get someplace but great for trolling and that's 90% of the fishing we do but first I got to rebuild the bottom of it hit a rock with it last season
 
#29 ·
ok
carbs are laying on my work bench, found nothing wrong with the top carb but the bottom carb had 4 clogged ports two was almost closed completely and the other two was completely, lots of little black dots all inside of carbsl
Looked like rubber from inside of gas line I am replacing the entire fuel line and now before I replace the carbs I am going ahead and taking the fuel pump apart and cleaning it also. I will update soon as I get them put back on and test drive, thanks for all the help on this matter!!
 
#30 ·
Great job, and your fuel pump diaphragm may be shot as well. Don't forget, if your gas tank isn't E-10 compliant, any rubber hoses in it could be ate up also. I know it is a real pain. Just keep thinking, $90.00/hr. labor charge and possible 5 week wait at a shop. :) Good old moral support. HA! HA! HA!
 
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