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2 surge protectors one outlet. is it safe?

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Old 08-16-2011, 06:09 PM   #1
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Default 2 surge protectors one outlet. is it safe?

moved weeks ago and i dont have many outlets. i will not have anything plugged in that needs a major amount of power. just tv,xbox,ps3,pc, modem etc..
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:32 PM   #2
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I would think you would be alright with the devices you mentioned. No electric grills or anything like that. Every once in awhile hold your hand to the outlet and check it's temperture, warm is okay, hot is not.
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:37 PM   #3
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You should be fine, I've got everything mentioned hooked up right next to me, plus a alarm clock and a filter for my fish tank.
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:28 PM   #4
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if you overload the circuit, I'm sure a breaker in the residence or a breaker on a power strip will pop...it might be more dangerous to a Windows machine to suddenly lose power
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:43 PM   #5
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I use a 6 outlet surge protector above my garage workbench. If I overjuice it the protector turns off with no effect on the house breaker. I just have to reset it. I'd use it, unless you blow a breaker.--Tim............................................... .................................................. .................................................. ...............Name:  Electrician.jpg
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:25 AM   #6
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MY house is set up where each 110 outlet will handle 3000 watts before a breaker pops. You can get 6 way surges that take up both plugs in the outlet that are very good or if the outlet is in a hidden area you can use surge strips that have multiple outlets and are better.
Power surges and lightning strikes are 2 different beasts, most surge protectors are not fast enough to protect against lightning, lightning protectors are $$
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:33 AM   #7
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Half on-topic, as an alternative to the usual surge protector strip, there's a "squid" type where each plug is on its own short cord - the advantage being, you don't have bulky power supplies squeezing each other for space on the strip.

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Old 08-17-2011, 09:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iam20fan View Post
i will not have anything plugged in that needs a major amount of power. just tv,xbox,ps3,pc, modem etc..
Every appliance has numbers adjacent to where the power cord attaches. Everyone is expected to sum those numbers. The sum should never exceed 13 amps or 1500 watts.

Depending on a circuit breaker tripping or feeling heat is equivalent to those who said the secondary O'rings on Challenger will protect everything. Never expect the emergency backup system (ie strip's breaker) to protect from fire.

Power strips must connect directly to the wall receptacle; must not be daisy chained.
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:03 AM   #9
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This house was built in 1964 and its electric circuits are inadequate compared to a new house. I don't like the way the few breakers carry large parts of the house - so lights upstairs dim when the microwave turns on in the kitchen.
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Old 08-17-2011, 12:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intimidator View Post
MY house is set up where each 110 outlet will handle 3000 watts before a breaker pops. You can get 6 way surges that take up both plugs in the outlet that are very good or if the outlet is in a hidden area you can use surge strips that have multiple outlets and are better.
Power surges and lightning strikes are 2 different beasts, most surge protectors are not fast enough to protect against lightning, lightning protectors are $$
Sun appliances convinced my wife that we needed a lightning protector for the computer she had bought,I was upset...until 4 yrs later when lightning hit the tree across the street,and jumped to the transformer and blew out the neighbors electronics except ours. My wife gloated over that for awhile.
Always buy the best you can afford, alot cheaper than having to replace
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:18 PM   #11
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...until 4 yrs later when lightning hit the tree across the street,and jumped to the transformer and blew out the neighbors electronics except ours.
If a protector protected your electronics, then other appliances (microwave, dishwasher, stove, GFCIs, dimmer switches, smoke detectors) were damaged. Or did she also buy invisible protectors for them?

Surge did damage to neighbors because that was a best connection to earth. Their appliances earthed a surge that did not need to obtain earth destructively via your appliances. Therefore your clocks, washing machine, and air conditioner also were not damaged. If her protector did anything, then those other unprotected appliances were damaged. A surge had no reason to hunt for earth destructively inside your house. A better connection to earth was via neighbor's appliances.
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOSR View Post
Half on-topic, as an alternative to the usual surge protector strip, there's a "squid" type where each plug is on its own short cord - the advantage being, you don't have bulky power supplies squeezing each other for space on the strip.

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Brilliant!
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:47 PM   #13
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buy a few fire exstigueshers
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:43 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starcraft67 View Post
Sun appliances convinced my wife that we needed a lightning protector for the computer she had bought,I was upset...until 4 yrs later when lightning hit the tree across the street,and jumped to the transformer and blew out the neighbors electronics except ours. My wife gloated over that for awhile.
Always buy the best you can afford, alot cheaper than having to replace
Yep, I know, I spent the extra money to get lightning protection after I lost 3 TV's and Audio/Video equipment when lightning came through my TV tower (used it for local Channels, now it is just a lightning rod to protect the house), ...alot of the surge protectors say they protect against lightning but when you looked at the ratings...they do not!
There is an even faster level needed (and even bigger $$$) to protect against an EMP!

Last edited by Intimidator; 08-18-2011 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:56 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Intimidator View Post
Yep, I know, I spent the extra money to get lightning protection after I lost 3 TV's and Audio/Video equipment when lightning came through my TV tower (used it for local Channels, now it is just a lightning rod to protect the house), ...
View the figure in this application note. Even underground wires must be earthed before entering the building. Earthed directly with a wire. Or earthed with a 'whole house' protector. Then direct lightning strikes even to the tower cause no damage:
http://www.erico.com/public/library/...es/tncr002.pdf
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intimidator View Post
MY house is set up where each 110 outlet will handle 3000 watts before a breaker pops.
Meanwhile, each receptacle is only rated for appliances of 1560 or less. Yes, you can exceed rating because circuit breakers do not trip until power massively exceeds receptacle rating.

Anyone using the circuit breaker as an overload indicator is all but asking for a house fire. Circuit breakers are only emergency backup protection. Depending only on a circuit breaker to inform of an overload is why house fires have occurred.

A standard NEMA15-5 receptacle is not intended for 3000 watt loads.
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westom View Post
View the figure in this application note. Even underground wires must be earthed before entering the building. Earthed directly with a wire. Or earthed with a 'whole house' protector. Then direct lightning strikes even to the tower cause no damage:
http://www.erico.com/public/library/...es/tncr002.pdf
Tower was "Earthed" once I found out it was just a big lightning rod with a direct wire running into the house!
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Old 08-18-2011, 01:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westom View Post
Meanwhile, each receptacle is only rated for appliances of 1560 or less. Yes, you can exceed rating because circuit breakers do not trip until power massively exceeds receptacle rating.

Anyone using the circuit breaker as an overload indicator is all but asking for a house fire. Circuit breakers are only emergency backup protection. Depending only on a circuit breaker to inform of an overload is why house fires have occurred.

A standard NEMA15-5 receptacle is not intended for 3000 watt loads.
Correct, each outlet AT MY HOUSE was set up to handle A Max of 3000 watts with 2 receps that should never draw more than half of that wattage. Each outlet has a safety breaker then the main.
My parents house burnt when I was a baby due to old wiring and when I built mine I "OverKilled" the safety systems. And yes, I did forget about the tower...and the need for surge protectors the first time around

I just meant that he can use a 6 recep surge protector if he doesn't come close to the rated wattage for the outlet.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:11 PM   #19
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Tower was "Earthed" once I found out it was just a big lightning rod with a direct wire running into the house!
If a tower was earthed, then surge damage is easier. And a code violation.

Tower must be safety grounded (not earthed) for human safety. Surges must be earth grounded for transistor safety. To protect tower transistors means energy dissipates outside and in earth - far from appliances. Once that energy is permitted anywhere inside a building, then it goes hunting for earth destructively via appliances. A surge must be earthed before it enters a building. An earthed household appliance violates the National Electrical Code.

All should appreciate the problem. AC wires far down the street are a lightning rod connected to all household appliances. Lightning rod is part of a protection only when earthed. Where does every incoming wire get earthed before entering a building? Either incoming energy dissipates harmlessly outside. Or that energy is hunting destructively for earth via household appliances.

That is transistor safety. Human safety means not depending on the emergency backup system to protect anyone. Depending on a circuit breaker to identify an overload is foolish. For example, a 20 amp breaker may conduct 25 amps for up to two hours before that breaker trips. An overload. And assumes a breaker is still working according to specs.
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Old 08-18-2011, 03:01 PM   #20
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Amps X Volts = Watts, right?
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